Off the main motorway from Porto to Galicia and up a meandering mountain, find two old buildings divided by a small garden. It’s part of a sleepy little hamlet with the odd dog barking and church bells sounding the hour a kilometre below you. The house faces south and views soar towards the Serra d’Arga; the back is cradled by woods. Get your walking boots on and you can hike all day from the door; when you get back cool off in the kidney shaped pool or settle on the view-filled terrace with a gin and tonic. Soft leather sofas face the fireplace in the living room, bedrooms are restful, bathrooms small but perfectly formed. The garden is exceptional: mature trees and shrubs, smooth lawns, pots of flowers, a vegetable garden, hammocks strung between trees, plenty of places to sit and ponder. When the light fades and the stars emerge in the unpolluted sky you’ll feel pleased to be outdoors. Sleep peacefully in the total quiet, awake to plan your day. This is an unknown part of Portugal, filled with small villages, mountains and a wonderful coastline. Visit Sierra de Peneda National Park.