Down the sloping driveway framed by twisting vines is this grand manor house with panoramic views. Originally the priest’s home in the 1500s, and rebuilt in the 1700s, it’s impressive, yet elegantly faded. Knock on the heavy wooden door and Delfim or Ana greets you warmly, then takes you to your traditional room, which is unlocked with an ancient iron key. Some bedrooms share a sitting room, with leather sofas and a stand for tea and coffee; all have antique furniture, intricately hand-carved wooden beds, and crochet blankets made by Delfim’s mother, Maria. Bathrooms are spacious and en suite with powerful showers and heaps of towels. Breakfast is served in the old maize store, now a glass-fronted building with those stunning views – across a viaduct and over apple trees to green hills dotted with houses. The breakfast spread is a real treat including organic produce from the farm: quince jam and ham, cheese and butter, breads, brioches, cereals, juice, coffee… and if you manage to rise from the table, there’s plenty to see and do here. Hunt down the old grape press, search out the snooker and games room, slip into the large pool.