Off the beaten track, surrounded by fruit and olive trees, is this good old-fashioned B&B. It’s a very friendly, very relaxing place to stay, and an affordable place from which to explore this pretty part of Portugal. You have quiet beaches 15 minutes away, and walking and cycling along the coast (and in the hills around Monchique). And Silves, with castle and cathedral, has a great choice of restaurants. Well-travelled Bill and Isa met in Angola and are charming hosts; Bill is a mine of information on local places of interest. Their modern home is spotless and traditionally furnished without fuss or frills, while spacious, comfortable bedrooms – wooden furniture, tiled floors, colourful rugs – open to the garden or the lovely big pool; one gets its own terrace. Guests come and go as they please: there are shady spots around the grounds and, for chillier days, a wood-burning stove in the sitting room. There’s also a kitchen corner so you can rustle up a simple meal: excellent for families. The main road is in sight but all you hear is the rustling of the trees. Great for exploring, and brilliant value.