A beautifully restored 150-year-old ‘cubist’ townhouse in the old quarter of Olhão with its cobbled back streets, tree-lined promenade and famous markets – one for fruit, vegetables and meat and the other with a vast array of freshly-caught fish. The townhouse hallway is flooded with light: the ceiling is vaulted, doors are high, the original floor tiles are stunning and all is white and inviting. Find a comfortable sitting room with two sofas and a dining area, a kitchen that has all a cook desires and two spotless bedrooms – the one at the front is larger – both with underfloor heating, handmade furniture and top notch bathrooms. You have your own whitewashed courtyard with pretty bougainvillea and outdoor seating – a narrow tiled stair takes you to a large roof terrace with pergola, dining for six, BBQ, oven, shower and sunbeds. A great spot for a drink then dinner (fish, of course!) with views across the town rooftops. Stroll to restaurants, take a water taxi to the almost deserted sand-spit islands of Armona, Culatra, Farol and Deserta: no roads… just fishing nets, camomile dunes, a sprinkling of cafés.