Thankfully, little has changed since the current owners arrived in 2008. The wine and whisky lists remain over 200-strong, and the Devon cheese board continues to draw rural winers and diners from afar. Settles and tables are crammed into every corner, horse brasses brighten low beams, there's an inglenook glowing with logs and part of the bar dates from Tudor times. Start with a bowl of Teign mussels, move on to rack of lamb with redcurrant and rosemary jus, finish with treacle tart. Or try something from the bar menu; everything is delicious. To wash all this down: Nobody Bitter served in old pint glasses. A rare dram of Islay malt might be an excellent nightcap – pity the designated driver! The village is buried down a maze of lanes but is certainly worth the detour.