There’s an Arabian Nights atmosphere here thanks to wrought iron lamps and beds, stripey blankets and leather pouffes, swathes of rich-coloured paint and, above all, the coolly tinkling patio with its evening candles. After turning an old townhouse into the delightful little Al-Mudawar, the creative young owners opened almost ten years ago and still love every minute of it. Five-year-old daughter Carla is the mascot, Arantxa is the hospitality expert, Alex offers you all the fun of his activity company. Set round the patio, the southern-simple bedrooms are smallish, as are the double beds, with curly iron bedsteads and solid timber cupboards. Each of the good little shower rooms has a colourful washbasin from Almeria. The breakfast room is light and airy, there’s a cosy little sitting room, it is just plain welcoming. On the huge lake nearby, Alex organises kayaking and water-skiing while the surrounding hills are perfect for rock climbing, mountain biking and zip wiring. Inimitable Córdoba, twenty minutes away, is not to be missed – and trainspotters will enjoy the AVE speeding past in the distance.