Rafaela runs her family’s finca, plus eight hectares of olives and vines, with great pride and the help of her English-speaking son Jose Maria and her neighbour Solano (who might cook you one of his home-grown veggie dishes). It’s a charmingly easy-going old place. The final approach down a mile or so of sandy lane brings you to the shade of the magnificent elms surrounding it and fine views of nearby Montilla. Rooms are simple, cosy and full of character – all bar one have two beds, some a third, one double is quite small – all have stories to tell. Iron bedsteads, headboards made from ancient doors, chintz bedspreads, glass-fronted cabinets, vaulted windows – decent mattresses and no-frills bathrooms. The L-shaped, dark yellow living room is full of family treasures, tourist info, dried flowers and floral fabrics and a great fireplace for cosy evenings. The beamed country kitchen is pure vintage Andalucia. Bigger groups have space to eat outside. Walk past the Roman water well and the improvised basketball court to the pool. Ask Rafaela anything about things local and her aquarelle painting courses.