Sam and Jeannie are the most engaging couple you could meet and adore to share their hilltop place of wild natural beauty hidden among the oak and chestnut woods of the Aracena mountains – good food and interesting conversation are guaranteed. Buen Vino was built in the early 1980s but many of the materials used are recycled, ferried in from far corners of Spain. The panelled dining room, the arched doors, the wooden staircase, all have a seductive patina. Bedrooms are cosy, one with a sensational view of the valley from the bath, another (for summer only) alongside the pool, and the Yellow Room with a big private steam and massage shower just across the corridor. All have goosedown pillows and olive oil soaps, chairs to lounge in and pleasing colours, cushions, pictures and heaps of books. Walks start from the door, breakfasts are amazing and Jeannie’s food is wholesome, hearty, rustic and Spanish. Why not come for a cookery course and join the party? After experimenting with jamon from Jabugo, sherry from Jerez and veg from the garden, raise a glass to your creativity under the pergola – or by the great log fire in winter.