Slip out of the fast lane and into the slow, in atmospheric Archidona where the tourists don’t go. Almohalla 51 is in the historic quarter, two solid houses woven into one, their antique tiles, wonky beams and thick walls exquisitely restored. David and Myles have juxtaposed amusing contemporary paintings with ‘feria’ posters, and bird cages with carefully placed ceramics… but the décor is not cluttered, just stylish. Five bedrooms reached via twists and turns come steeped in character; some face mountains, others terraces, rooftops or spires; all have rustic-chic bathrooms and an inner sanctum feel. Drift down to breakfast at the big friendly table, or on dappled benches strewn with cushions; feast on fruit salads and smoothies, cold cuts and cheeses, great pots of coffee, eggs how you want them and the best local oil for ‘tostada’. Climb up through the pines to the hilltop sanctuary with dizzy views, or drive to one of the four great Andaluz cities. Then it’s back to a cool little pool in a walled garden with views (a rare treat), a pre-dinner fino at Bar Arxiduna, and ‘berenjenas con miel’ at your hosts’ favourite restaurant, Bar Central.