Nerja is one of the nicest resorts on the Costa del Sol – more winding cobbled streets than high rises – and the Paraíso has an exceptional position – a ten-minute stroll from restaurants and bars, on the edge of a cliff facing the sea. The main house was built in the Sixties by an English doctor (no lift, several stairs) but the annexe is newer. All has all been thoroughly revamped thanks to Enrique – charm personified – and his Swiss wife Alicia. There’s plenty of pink and white marble and an exotic southern air prevails. Bedrooms are modern and comfortable with jacuzzis (and piped music), fluffy bathrobes and towels; some face the sea. From the penthouse suite a spiral stair takes you to your own roof terrace: sunbathe, sunset-watch, gaze over the bay to Sky Mountain. Beneath the hotel are a sauna and a hot tub dug out of solid rock, but best of all are the terraced gardens that drop down to the beach – 130 steps! This tumble of jasmine, bougainvillea, papaya, palms and fountain is a rare treat. So is breakfast on the terrace overlooking the Med; catch the fishermen tending their nets before going out to sea.