The bustling city is at your feet: jaw-dropping gothic cathedral, Alcazar palace, galleries, food markets, tapas bars and a plethora of stunning churches. This typical Andalucian townhouse – high ceilings, wrought-iron window grilles, wooden shutters – is in the ancient Alameda district, recently down-at-heel, now fashionably trendy. The style is simple, spare but homely. Bedrooms with sturdy wooden furniture, pretty bedcovers and tall, shuttered windows have balconies overlooking the street or the inner courtyard. This cool space, mercifully sun-free and tinkling with a fountain, feels exotically Moorish. Opening off the perfectly adequate dining-kitchen, it’s a shady spot for breakfast or reading a book when the terrace gets too hot. There’s a comfy TV room on the second floor which leads out to the large roof terrace. You’ll find Moroccan cushions, scented jasmine and lemon, a dining table, sun canopy, even a BBQ – perfect for cooking the fresh fish you can buy in the nearby market. Absolute musts (after the cathedral) are watching Flamenco and a trip to a hammam.