Uncastillo, as the name implies, is an attractive castle-topped town – too often passed by – in the Zaragozan Pre-Pyrenees. Just behind the beautiful Iglésia Santa María is this grand 18th-century house, the nicest place to stay in town. The traditional elements of old flagstones, wrought-iron grilles, terracotta tiles and wooden beams have been preserved and restored, and matched by an eye-catching décor. Massively thick outer walls mean that even at the height of the Spanish summer it remains cool; in winter, a wood-burner keeps the sitting room as warm as toast. Inma and Miguel are as charming as the guest house they have created. With those heavy stone walls, thick bedspreads and antique (or ultra-modern) washbasins they feel wonderfully comfortable. The new suites, designer gorgeous with massive beds and tubs, have perfect views – of terracotta roofs, countryside and three Romanesque churches. The apartments, in another part of town, are equally good. Another medieval town to visit is Sos del Rey Católico, whose claim to fame is that the local-boy-made-good was Fernando II.