Delightful owner Paloma is the life and soul of this small hotel – built by her grandfather in the 1920s – and she’s eager for you to explore the Asturias region. Arriondas may not be the most beautiful of Spanish towns, but there’s so much to do in the area; hiking and birdwatching in the Picos de Europa (which bedrooms have views of), canoeing in the river just opposite, beaches for surfing (Paloma will lend you wetsuits and boards) and visits to many prehistoric caves. Return to a seriously cosy sitting room with a warming log fire, lots of sofas and chairs in which to slump, chess, board games, family photos, art on the walls – you’ll feel relaxed. All the bedrooms are different (some facing town, some the river) and simple with dark wooden floors, but all have firm mattresses, crisp white cotton and small, tiled showers with excellent pressure – even on the top floor. You can walk to everything – do try the local cider with your tapas – but there’s a restaurant at the hotel which serves traditional Asturian dishes involving lots of fresh fish. Just a stroll down the street you’ll find another with a Michelin star.