Over the Casano river, then up the winding road to a village perched high, surrounded by majestic peaks. A sharp turn… and there is Jascal, an intricate pattern of red roofs and chimneys against a Picos panorama, and in perfect keeping with the local style. Carlos and Barbra, hospitable, knowledgeable hosts, greet you at reception then show you around. Choose one of three apartments set back in the hillside, or one of two ‘casas’ in the three-storey house. You’ll love the spacious open-plan living rooms with wood-burning stoves, the built-in wardrobes with locally made doors, the great big beds dressed in white linen and the decorative features; and the enchanted mossy forest landscape will have you spellbound. Wild cherries bloom in March, fungi burst forth in autumn, mountain streams gush, badgers and chamoix trot the paths, goat and cow bells tinkle in the distance. Follow the farm track up the valley, stop at a bar for a delicious ‘racion’ (and some of the local, creamy Cabrales), call Carlos to ferry you home. Or take the gentle circular walk to little Inguanzo (1.5km) for lunch. Picos heaven for nature lovers.