On the edge of 15th-century Tegiuse, surrounded by a sprinkling of developments, is a spectacular renovation of a former finca. Behind electronic gates are two striking guest houses built into the lava and protected from the wind. L-shaped in design and divided by a barbecue terrace, they would make a great getaway for a party of six. Built in the style of the artist César Manrique, who fought to retain the island’s indigenous architecture, thick stone walls and stone arched ceilings give the houses a chapel-like feel – and keep you beautifully cool. Floor tiles are reclaimed from an Italian church, colours are vibrant and the mix of old and contemporary is uplifting. Visit Orzola to see the fishermen land their haul, enjoy the fish restaurants of Arrieta, be inspired by Manrique’s cactus garden at Guatiza and his house built on a lava flow, and discover the island’s vineyards, cycle routes and beaches. Return to white walls and cacti, teak-furnished patios and a small, circular, fountain-fed pool.