Follow the road, dotted with buildings, up through steep terraces of bananas, to a house with spectacular views. Ahead is the ocean; to the left is Teide, the largest mountain in Spain, a volcano rising from the sea. The Saez family – young Pablo is helpful and kind – has farmed the land for generations: ten terraces of banana, avocado and fig trees. Delicious produce awaits your arrival. The house was named ‘little castle’ after small turrets were added to the original structure, and there’s a new annexe reached via a stone stair; here the second bedroom lies, with stunning sea views. The décor? Find yellow and pink walls, glossy tiled floors, floral furnishings; bar stools here, a replica piano there, the odd painting. Bathrooms and kitchen are spotless but basic. Summer life is lived by the pool, surrounded by the tropical plants that make this island so special, with lush terraces running down to the sea. Listen to the waves crashing on the rocks, bask in the sun, soak up the view. You can walk the entire coastline via plantation footpaths, visiting gorgeous black sand beaches on the way.