Gaze on huge views – from the hammock in the garden to the carved balcony above. Surrounded by pastures, woods and gentle hills, this 18th-century building stands in little Carmona. Both house and village are beautifully preserved.
You feel at home the moment you walk in, thanks to hosts Lucia and Fernando. A narrow hall leads to a wooden stair and bedrooms above (the bigger two in the attic). Pour yourself drinks from the honesty bar, look forward to tapas at supper. Breakfast is a speciality here (local, varied and delicious) and at weekends you can sample their ‘cocido montañes’, the famous Cantabrian stew.
Cyclists will be happy, and this mountainous terrain is home to the ‘10,000 El Soplao’ every May. There are surfing beaches in the north, and Michelin stars in Santander. Put your foot on the pedal and you can be there in an hour.