You’re tucked into a backwater here in two traditional stone houses with a shared garden: the goats make more noise than the unspoilt village does, so don’t expect anything other than peace and nightlife that is more owls than howls. Both are simple, rustic houses with quirky, homely interiors, open-plan living rooms with fireplaces and bright, almost kitsch, colour schemes. It’s shot through with owner Silvia’s personality: find painted fairies, displays of handiwork and cushion covers made from old shirts – somehow it all works! Bedrooms and bathrooms are predictably colourful and wacky but spotless; kitchens have all you need and, happily, leftovers from other guests like useful olive oil, coffee, salt etc. Outside is a simple area for you to sit in the sun, enjoy the mountain views and eat together with children playing – this is very much a joining in sort of place and won’t suit lovers of bling or solitude. Walking routes are straight from the door, you are surrounded by beech forests – spectacular in autumn, fresh in spring. Silvia greets you with a roaring fire, homemade cake, organic eggs.