In a city of ineffable loveliness and minutes’ walk from the Cathedral is one of western Spain’s most perfect small hotels. Señor Almaraz likes things to be ‘just so’, examples of his care are in every corner and his team could not be more diligent. There are two eye-catching stained-glass windows in reception, and wood is used to meticulous effect: sparkling parquet floors in the public rooms, inlaid tables and writing tables in the bedrooms; all is immaculate; redecoration frequent and consistently stylish. You may not need the phone in the bathroom but you’ll be glad of the double glazing (you’re in the centre of town), the deeply comfortable beds and the embroidered bed linen. Quietly lavish bathrooms in silvery marble have underfloor heating and Bulgari soaps. Superb standards at the buffet breakfast too, where the staff are unfailingly courteous and the spread lavish. Leave your car in the hotel car park, walk through to reception and let the magic take hold. Later, armed with tailored information, head out on foot to explore. This is a charming, elegant and much-loved place.