Welcome to a remote corner of Castille, a fertile valley in the lee of the jagged Guadarrama that cut like a scimitar between Madrid and the Meseta; Castillian to the core. The stone buildings of this rustic homestead stand a mile from the village, close to the banks of the Cega river, lost on the road to Pedraza. The roofs are terracotta – tejas were made here, hence the name – and the bedrooms, in an outbuilding, display a mix of old and new pieces. The two-level suite has a cosy hunting-lodge feel, a decoration that is warm, simple and appealing. There are no phones, no TVs, just peacefulness and views. But it is the manager’s service and attention that set this place apart, and there’s a wonderfully authentic restaurant. In a series of snug rooms where winter fires blaze, guests enjoy the best of regional cooking; try the much-loved gazpacho, or their fish cooked with pine nuts and sultanas. The gardens are lovely on warm days, full of trees for shade; opposite is a beautiful Romanesque chapel. Note that wedding parties are often held at weekends in summer, when the place closes.