Cuenca is a town that astonishes and engraves itself on the memory. Perched on the rim of its unforgettable gorge, this is an inn to match. Behind the magnificently crumbling portal is a nondescript reception area that opens to a fascinating rabbit warren of rooms, spaces and twisting staircases, and terraces with breathtaking views. What is even more unusual is that bedrooms range from spartan to palatial, the most luxurious with a balcony, a terrace or a canopied bed. All have fresh white walls, uneven floors and are furnished with old country pieces and decorative flair. The best and quietest are at the back and have views to make the spirit soar, but all of them are worth a night and the choir boy wing is being completely redeveloped. There’s a little dining terrace perched right on the cliff face, whose end table is the most coveted – if you don’t suffer from vertigo you get a view worth crossing the Meseta for. Cuenca is fascinating though parking is tricky, there is secure parking 50 metres away. The Posada bustles with walkers of all ages, and the food is good.