Nothing spoils the peace of this lovely old pilgrims’ hostel: no lights, no neighbours, no main road. Just gentle forest, farmland, fruit trees and river, a lush garden with pool and football pitch, an observatory for stargazing, wooden loungers for lolling… and wholesome Catalan cooking from Alexandra and family. They are very friendly and keen for guests to enjoy their rural paradise. You breakfast on cheese, ham, honey, marmalade, fruits and freshly baked bread; delicious dinners too of home-grown veg and local meat. Sink into deep sofas or a rocking chair by the fire, in a cosy sitting room with piano and colourful artwork. Kids scamper up to a second living room with table football and games chest. Simple bedrooms have white or stone walls with splashes of colour, terracotta tiles and big, tempting beds; two have ladders to a mezzanine. Throw open shutters to bucolic views and birdsong. Bathrooms have hydro-massage showers – perfect for sloshing down after a day at the beach, or visiting Figueres’ Dalí museum or the volcanic landscapes of Garrotxa… which, if you’re feeling flush, you can view from a hot air balloon.