Up twisting, cobbled streets into the heart of the medieval town, you slip through a simple door… and magically enter an oasis of peace. Wrapped around by gardens, this conquistador’s mansion towers over town and has breathtaking views. Unexpectedly grand, restored from 1970s’ ruins, its rooms sweep you up with old-fashioned country-house style: lush drapes, soft lamps, large fireplaces, rich rugs. Entertain royally in the marble-floored drawing room with its plump sofas, big table seating 12 and decorative furnishings. Eat in the vaulted dining room or on the shady terrace, sprawl in the comfy sitting room with sofas and card tables, flaunt your cooking skills in the kitchen. Guest room-style bedrooms are formal and comfortable, their bathrooms brisk and unfussy. Rooms across the terrace are cosier – good for peace-seekers or children. The owners, charming and courteous, live nearby and are experts on Trujillo’s rich history; ask them too about walking, birdwatching, fishing. Or just unwind in the beautifully kept terraced gardens with its delicious nooks, fabulous sunsets and wonderful pool.