Its exterior unmissable on the sleepy village square, this splendid old house has been fastidiously renovated with no loss of original architectural charm. The bright façade, vivid against cloudless La Rioja skies, nevertheless fails to prepare you for the formal elegance inside, testament to Rosario’s impeccable taste. Note the sitting room off the hall with huge, ornate mantelpiece and open fireplace, deep bright sofas and delicate ‘hydraulic’ tiles; the cosy restaurant with turquoise covered chairs; the chic, tile-floored breakfast area overlooking the garden. Bedrooms, spacious and bright, express classic sophistication with posh linen, plush fabrics, freestanding mirrors and furniture procured at specialist auctions. Quirky touches – beautiful pre-Columbian paintings and headboard designs painted on walls – add character, while uplighting, coir matting and richly hued rugs add warmth. This is bang on the Camino de Santiago, so pilgrims on foot, bike and horseback are a common sight in the village; they often take a breather in the shade by the church opposite. And Rosario loves English guests!