The village is small; your sleep will be deep. Wake to a fabulous shower, and a special breakfast spread: cheeses, charcuterie, jams, bizcocho, and the best bread you have ever tasted. All is perfect and that includes the welcome: Javier and Ascen can’t do enough for you.They have overseen an immaculate restoration. Sitting rooms are spacious, stairs are wide, furniture is Spanish-chic. Help yourself to an expertly stocked honesty bar, retire to a green serene garden. As for the bedrooms (which are reachable by lift), they range from big to huge, with beds large enough to lose yourself in, and views to garden, village and mountain.This is La Rioja, one of the largest wine regions of Spain; the well-known Bodegas Campo Viejo is a 50-minute drive. Or rent bikes, borrow a picnic rug, and head off into the mountains. Unmissable is the 6th-century monastery of San Millán de Suso (45km)- the Gregorian chanting is amazing.