This ancient stone house is hidden away in a small hamlet on a pass through the mountains between France and Spain. It was a farmers’ rest and is now an authentic retreat with a secluded garden and terrace overlooking the river.
Maité’s organic breakfasts feature home-produced apple juice, homemade jams, cakes, muffins and biscuits, perhaps scrambled eggs and toast with local olive oil and tomatoes and kiwifruit from her husband’s farm when in season. There’s an excellent restaurant next door serving traditional Navarra dishes with a modern French touch. It closes most of the week in winter, so Maite offers evening meals Sunday to Thursday (in summer: Sunday/Monday).
You’re two minutes’ drive from the good-sized town of Santesteban, which has cafes and restaurants; Pamplona and San Sebastian are 45 minutes away. Hire bikes for challenging cycles through the mountains or walk in the nearby botanical gardens or forest; return for a leisurely al fresco dinner by the river.