A mouthwatering address! Donamaría is hidden away off to one side of a pass through the mountains between France and Spain, within striking distance of San Sebastian and Pamplona; it was a farmers’ rest, now sisters Lorea (who studied tourism) and Haizea (an accomplished cook) are taking over the helm from their parents. These two ancient village houses are packed full of old furniture, vintage toys, dried flowers and a few surprises to boot; the atmosphere is intimate, authentic, easy. This is a place to linger long over lunch or dinner; connoisseurs rave about the traditional Navarra cooking with a modern French touch. Menus change according to season; warm duck salad with hazelnut vinaigrette, stuffed hake with garlic sauce, apple cake with cinnamon ice cream… all of it memorable. Bedrooms are plain, uncluttered and simple, bathrooms are small but pristine; two rooms have superb little terraces overlooking the river. The garden is beautiful, secluded, with weeping willows children may hide in; the oak forests make the heart soar.