Drakes has the lot: cool rooms, sea views and one of the best restaurants in town. It stands across the road from the beach, with the famous pier a three-minute walk. Inside, a cocktail bar doubles as reception, while a chic style has conquered all corners. Bedrooms are exemplary. Eleven have free-standing baths in the room, all have waffle bathrobes and White Company lotions, but what impresses most is the detail and workmanship. Handmade beds rest on carpets that are changed every year, contemporary plaster mouldings curl around ceilings like mountain terraces, and Vi-Spring mattresses, wrapped in the crispest linen, are piled high with pillows. Don’t worry if you can’t afford the best rooms; others may be smaller and those at the back have city views, but all are fantastic and the attic rooms are as cute as could be (one has a balcony). As for the food, it’s some of the best in town, perhaps seafood chowder with razor clams, marinated wild boar with a quince purée, pineapple soufflé with lime and tequila ice cream. The Lanes are close and packed with hip shops. Don’t miss the Royal Pavilion.