3 days in Lake Garda: Waterfront terraces, grand estates and superbly simple food

Day 1 – Gargnano, historic lemon groves and hidden hermitages

Start the day with a stroll through Hotel du Lac’s historic citrus garden, Fondo Crocefisso. The beautifully restored 18th-century limonaia (traditional lemon house, once a widespread feature of the region), has been carefully brought back to life by Valerio’s family. The guided walk is a lovely introduction to the history of the area as you stroll among the trees. You loop back towards Gargnano through the picturesque historic centre, still a lattice of narrow cobbled lanes. Along the way, stop at Terre & Sapori, the local cooperative dedicated to preserving small-scale regional producers. Here you can taste and purchase authentic Gargnano lemons, handmade citrus marmalades, traditional limoncello, locally grown capers, extra virgin olive oil and many other specialities from the area, before continuing on to the charming little harbour and the cloister of the Church of San Francesco, the oldest on Lake Garda, built by Franciscan monks during the 12th century. 

If you’re not all walked out, take a scenic trail in the afternoon for panoramic views across Lake Garda as you wind through ancient chestnut forests and olive groves to the Hermitage of San Valentino, built by survivors of a devastating plague in 1630. Wander back and sink into a chair on the terrace at Hotel Du Lac, taking in the enchanting sunset and the views of the majestic Monte Baldo mountain range rising directly across the water, before completing your immersion in Garda culture by dining on regional specialties – perhaps Bigoli con sardelle or pike with polenta, all accompanied by their own bread and olive oil. 

Day 2 – A private beach, the magnificent Villa Bettoni, and an afternoon cruise aboard the historic Galeotto II

After all the exertion of the previous day, start the morning relaxing on the Hotel du Lac’s private beach, perhaps with a good book. Twilight in Italy, by D. H. Lawrence would be a perfect choice, as it was written during his stay at Villa Igea, just 50 metres from the Hotel Du Lac. Lawrence captured and beautifully described the unique character and atmosphere of Gargnano. During the warmer months (or in winter if you’re a hardened wild swimmer) enjoy a rejuvenating swim in the crystal-clear waters of Lake Garda. 

Later in the morning, take a guided tour of Villa Bettoni in Bogliaco, just a three-minute walk from the beach. On the tour, which takes around an hour, you’ll see in and around this magnificent 18th-century lakeside residence, built for the Counts Bettoni of Brescia. Marvel at the sequence of lavishly decorated reception rooms before continuing into the spectacular Italian-style gardens, designed by architect Adriano Pierallini as though they were the grand stage set of an open-air theatre. 

Then it’s time to take to the water. From the picturesque harbour of Villa di Gargnano, board the beautifully restored historic cutter, Galeotto II, built in 1902. If conditions are right, your hosts and captains, Francesco and Giovanni Arosio, will turn off the engine and sail silently through an unforgettable journey along the lake, discovering hidden coves, secluded villas and secret corners of Gargnano that can only be appreciated from the water.  

Return to land for dinner at Il Marinaio in nearby Bogliaco, a renowned restaurant specialising in fresh fish from Lake Garda, where you can try Lake Garda whitefish (Coregone), Aole in saor (marinated shad prepared in the traditional Venetian style) and chargrilled Lake Garda sardines. 

Day 3 – Gardone Riviera & Salò

Together with Gargnano, this is the most elegant and least touristy part of Lake Garda, where culture, history and the relaxed pace of lakeside life come together in perfect harmony. 

First, a tour of another impressive mansion. The Vittoriale degli Italiani was created in 1921 by the celebrated Italian poet Gabriele d’Annunzio, who fell in love with Gardone Riviera at first sight. He chose to make his home here and transformed the estate into an extraordinary monument celebrating his life, art and Italy’s role in the First World War. At the heart of the estate is La Prioria, d’Annunzio’s private residence, preserved exactly as he left it. Richly decorated according to his distinctive taste, it still houses more than 33,000 books, offering a fascinating insight into the poet’s extraordinary personality. When you reach the highest point of the estate, you’ll look down from the impressive Mausoleum, designed by architect Gian Carlo Maroni after d’Annunzio’s death, at more magnificent views of the lake.  

A short walk from the Vittoriale lies the enchanting André Heller Botanical Garden, a peaceful oasis combining exotic plants from around the world with contemporary sculptures, ponds and tranquil pathways. It’s another lovely spot for a contemplative wander and the two together will take you perfectly up to lunch. For this, head along Lungolago D’Annunzio,a long promenade where you can find wonderful seafood, light snacks or just gelato to eat while you sit and watch the water.  

Once you’ve rested and refuelled, head down the road to Salò, or take one of Lake Garda’s ferries to travel in more style to the lovely old town. Before exploring the rest of Salò, make a pilgrimage to Pasticceria Vassalli, one of the town’s most beloved cafés and the perfect place to enjoy a coffee and one of its traditional pastries. Then it’s off to the magnificent late-Gothic cathedral (free to visit), renowned for its striking unfinished façade and the remarkable works of art preserved inside.  

End your day with a leisurely walk along Lungolago Zanardelli, the longest lakeside promenade on Lake Garda. Lined with elegant boutiques, cafés and historic buildings, it is the perfect place for shopping or simply enjoying the refined atmosphere of one of the lake’s most charming towns. 

Valerio Arosio is the owner of Hotel du Lac in Lake Garda.

 

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