Elegant but unintimidating, this airy twin-terraced casa is a privileged place to stay. In the maze-like centre of fascinating Tavira – near the old fish market, 15 minutes from the ferry to Ilha da Tavira’s sandy beaches – is a fine 19th-century townhouse exquisitely restored by an architect owner. Italian Paola has kept the traditional ceilings, wood and mosaic floors; intact too is the paintwork on the doors, their refined colours matched with walls of burnished lime render: the effect is stunning. There are three suites (one with the bed on the mezzanine, another with a spectacular ceiling), a classic double and a cosy studio with neat kitchenette and windows onto the patio. Don’t expect total quiet; do expect relaxation in a private apartment surrounded by Portuguese life, and cafés, shops and restaurants serving fish so fresh it tastes of the sea. Barbecue up on the leafy roof terrace with panoramic views of terracotta rooftops and palm-fringed river front; if you’re feeling nomadic, you can bed down and sleep under the stars. A rare gem.
Our visit to Casa Beleza Do Sul was perfect in every way for us. The location is exceptional with the back door out to the riverfront and ferry stop. The two terraces offer sun and shade and are the perfect setting for a coffee in the morning. Our suite was perfect for us in every way. Original features everywhere but a luxe modern bathroom and so spacious. It's not the right choice for everyone, with a little bustle noise from the coffee shop across the street in the early mornings and the narrow steps to the terrace and down to the back gate. But for us, it just added to the atmosphere.