Pub hopping through Surrey, the south coast and the city (4 days by train)
Sawday's Expert
5 min read
For a few lovely days of scenery and savour, you can’t go wrong heading for the south coast. But why rush the trip? We’ve strung together a few wonderful pubs, tracing a rough square through Surrey, down to the coast and back up to London. You could enjoy them over a week, pack them all into a very indulgent long weekend, or pick them off in a series of treat-night visits. Rural transport being what it is sometimes, we’ve given train and bus suggestions along with taxi journey times, but remember to book ahead if you’re planning on getting a cab from some of the quieter stations. However you approach it, as a multi-pub ramble or a quick impulse break, you’ll fill your days with country walks, spectacular landscapes and food to match.
Waterloo to Witley
1-hour train to Witley then 5-min taxi
Stay at: The Merry Harriers, Hambledon, Surrey
From Waterloo to Witley is as pleasant a journey to undertake as it is to say, winding out into the countryside and fetching up in the north end of the South Downs National Park. It can sometimes be easier to go into Milford, but either way you’ll end up with a short cab ride to The Merry Harriers, which will charm you instantly. It’s the local of a sleepy village, with a colourful, welcoming bar, beautiful bedrooms and some fine food on offer. It’s very fitting that it sits within an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, one which you can explore on the pub’s own llama treks or any number of local walks.
Witley to Chichester
1-hour train, then 30-min bus to Manhood Lane and a 10-min walk, or a 15-min cab to the door
Stay at: The Crab & Lobster, Chichester
The second stop sees you arcing down to the coast through the rest of the South Downs, the green hills whizzing past and the air smelling saltier with every stop. Your destination might sound nautically themed, but there’s no sight of striped cushions or seascape watercolours. The Crab & Lobster is a smartly styled, 17th-century inn that certainly leans heavily on the proximity of the water when it comes to the menu, which specialises in well… you can probably guess. West Wittering’s fabulous dunes are nearby and Chichester is a draw for Roman history buffs, but a gentle amble along to the harbour, binoculars in hand as it’s also a thriving bird sanctuary, might be all you need.
Chichester to Brighton
30-min bus or taxi, then 50-min train, 15-min walk
Stay at: Artist Residence, Brighton
Next it’s east for 32 miles, as the seagull flies, landing in brilliant Brighton to soak up its eclectic charms. Your stop is a creative and colourful distillation of everything great about the city, from the talented team behind the Artist Residence hotels. There are sea view rooms, enticing cocktails, interesting pieces all over the walls and a funky, laid-back vibe. Explore the Lanes and the marina or have some good old-fashioned fun with ice cream and the arcade at the pier before coming back for dinner, unless one of Brighton’s many fine eateries has tempted you out.
Brighton to Victoria
58-min train then Victoria line and a 5-min walk
Stay at: The Grafton Arms Pub & Rooms, Fitzrovia, London
If you’re not based in London and heading straight home, then The Grafton Arms Makes the perfect place to finish your southern tour. It’s centrally located, for a little sightseeing and city buzz, with a pan-Asian menu and a smart feel that make it a destination for visitors from out of town or locals dropping in for dinner. Soho is just round the corner and the West End is within easy reach, so all manner of shows and sights are available to crown a perfect few days of hills, sea and city.
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