This tiny arrowhead of land south of Chichester is something of a time warp, more 1940s than 21st century. The Crab & Lobster is older still – 350 years at last count. It sits on Pagham Harbour, a tidal marsh that teems with preening birds. Outside, you find a smart whitewashed exterior and a small garden for views across fields of sheep to the water. Inside, flagged floors, whitewashed walls, a fire at one end, a wood-burner at the other. There’s a lovely alcove with banquette seating, candles flicker in the evening, in summer you decant onto the back terrace for lunch in the sun. Upstairs, four super rooms come in duck-egg blue with crisp white linen, flat-screen TVs and gorgeous little bathrooms. Three have views of the water, one is up in the eaves and has a telescope to scan the high seas. There’s much to explore: Bosham, where King Canute tried to turn back the waves; Fishbourne, for its Roman palace; the Witterings, for miles of beach and dunes. Don’t forget dinner, perhaps Selsey crab cakes with chilli jam, fillet of pork with a calvados cream, caramelised plum tart.