7 days off-season in Brittany, on the trail of great painters

Brittany has long inspired France’s great artists, drawing Monet, Matisse, Picasso, Gauguin and more to its islands and coastal towns. What they found there was an incredible quality of light, under the glow of which the landscape constantly changed , as well as scenes of rural life, from people playing on the beach to washerwomen working in the rivers. This itinerary helps you follow in their footsteps, seeing what they saw and were inspired by, rather than simply observing the eventual output in galleries.

With a little help from our friends at Brittany Tourism, we sent photographer Sammy Royal, to explore from the splintered rocks of Belle Île to trendy Dinard, in search of the light fantastic. To get the longest leg of the journey over all at once, they went all the way south and worked back north, but it would work in either direction. They also travelled in late September, finding quieter places and shorter days made for plenty of beautiful sunrises and long, golden evenings when it felt like they had the world to themselves.

Day 1 – Monet and the beaches of Belle Île

After being cooped up in cars and rolled about on boats for most of the previous day, blow the cobwebs off with a beautiful circular as you walk quite literally in Monet’s footsteps. After breakfast at Hôtel La Désirade, pack up some lunch and walk down to Port Coton. It’ll take about 45 minutes, and once there you’ll be greeted by one of the scenes of Belle Île which so captivated the great artist – Les Aiguilles do Port Coton. He painted the striking spurs of rock off the island’s south coast in many different lights, noting how nature’s power gave a darkness to the scene, which he described as, “sinister, diabolical but superb”.

If you’ve brought your travel easel, this is your first chance to try and forge a classic. Once you’ve made that final over-correction and ruined your canvas, push on round the coast to Plage de Donnant, a beautiful strip of sand where you can dip your toes in the water and listen to the waves for a while, easing yourself into the Brittany pace of life. Complete the loop back to the hotel and spend the afternoon making full use of the pool, sauna and spa while you wait for dinner to be served in the hotel’s restaurant across the lane.  

Day 2 – Clairin, Maufra and the charm of Port de Sauzon

Take it easy on your legs on the second day and hire a bike so you can roll around the island at your leisure. First, head west to the far tip of the island, where Sarah Bernhardt, star of stage and early cinema, had a house which became a haven for artists of every medium. Here, she was often painted by her good friend Georges Clairin, often heavily costumed, even while on the beach. You can explore a museum dedicated her or simply stroll the sands before making your way to À l’Ouest Bistrozza for lunch of fresh, local ingredients with a spectacular sea-view backdrop.

After refreshment, it’s on to Port de Sauzon, where a sheltered harbour has been a favourite of sailors all the way from the village’s time as a hub for sardine fishermen to now, when yachts cruise into its calm waters to moor up at the colourful quay. The narrow streets make for an afternoon’s pleasant wandering and true art historians might recognise the place from paintings by Jean Puy and Maxime Maufra, whose picture of the docks and lighthouse sold for $80,000 in 2000.

When you’re done strolling round the town or attempting, once again, to follow in the brushstrokes of its famous portraitists, retire to Le Bistrot de l’Hôtel du Phare, for cocktails which might just have you hanging around until dinner.  

Day 3 – Matisse, Locmaria and Le Palais

For your last day on Belle île, cover the east of the island before making your way north to Le Palais, from which you’ll catch the ferry back to Quiberon. Locmaria on the eastern coast, is a tiny village with big charm, where locals swim in the sheltered cove and a curious church which looks more like a mill building than a place of worship. It’s one of the least visited parts of the island and far off the normal tourist route, but if you look around you’ll still manage to find fresh oysters and a spot of lunch.

In Le Palais, pick up the art trail again as you walk the streets where many great impressionists trod and which Matisse paused to capture. There are some fine options for food if you have the time, with Koko and Chez Lucienne both highly recommended for a final flavour of Belle Île before you return to the mainland. 

Days 4 & 5 – Gauguin and Pont Aven

As you leave Belle île, skipping over the blue waters back to the Quiberon Peninsula before working your way west to Pont Aven, you break with the impressionists, as Gauguin himself did, coming eventually to the town from which the school with which he’s most associated takes his name. The little town, beautiful and welcoming when Gauguin arrived, has changed little in the intervening years. It’s instantly apparent from the rock-strewn riverbeds, forest trails, and buildings scattered at various heights, how it could provide endless inspiration to artists.

We’ve put two days in here, but really this is one long period of soaking it all in. On one day, a misty morning’s autumnal walk through Bois d’Amour, where the Pont Aven school would often come to work, then a browse of the bookshop in Pension Gloanec, which was once the boarding house they frequented. 

On another, a tour of the 15 mills that line the river’s banks, a couple of which still have wheels turning slowly in the water, or a stroll further out of town in search of the landscapes the painters loved, dashing off a quick masterpiece before a glance round the Musée des Beaux-Arts in the afternoon. Intersperse this all with trips to local favourite eateries like Armelle Crêperie and Rosmadec le Moulin, for a few days of eating, drinking and seeing what new sights every hour brings to you.    

Days 6 & 7 – Picasso and Dinard

End your trip with a flourish, spending a couple of days revelling in the Belle Epoque beauty of Dinard. France’s wealthy flocked here in the 1850s, building a string of villas along the waterfront and on surrounding headlands. Eugène Isabey, Emile Bernard, Paul Signac and Henri Rivière all enjoyed the colours and culture of the coastal town.

In 1922, Picasso brought his family to Villa Beauregard and began painting lively beach scenes with his trademark distortion, as well as some slightly more traditional landscapes. These days, you still get the sense of a lively cultural community, with the town not only full of galleries but also home to a film festival so renowned that there’s a statue of Alfred Hitchcock on the promenade and the beach huts are all named after former Directors of the festival Jury.

Sadly, the heated seawater pool at Plage de l’Écluse has fallen out of use, but repairs were under way at time of writing (October 2026), so it might be worth a look if you fancy a unique outdoor swimming experience. Above the lido you’ll Les Roches Brunes, a villa built in the late 1800s by the Poussineau family and given to the city in 2007 on the condition that it became of art and culture for all. It has most certainly done so, now hosting all kinds of exhibitions and events in its gardens and halls.

Between beach trips, gallery wanders and historic houses, spare some time for a last taste of fine Breton cuisine, either at La Cour de Récré which specialises in burgers and simple food, or Ombelle where a couple of passionate food lovers scour the morning markets to create delicious menus. After a couple of days soaking in the style and maybe having one last go at capturing that ineffable light, it’s back on the boat from Brittany to Britain, with paint under your fingernails and a whole bursting palette of colours in your mind.

 

Feeling inspired? Check out our special places to stay in Brittany >

 

A few more photos from Brittany…

Inspired by Brittany?

From the rugged coastline of Belle Île to the elegant seaside streets of Dinard, Brittany has long drawn artists in search of dramatic landscapes, changing light and quiet coastal scenes. You can follow in their footsteps — or create your own route through the region.

Our Brittany specialists can design a tailor-made holiday around the places, landscapes and experiences that appeal to you, from island escapes and coastal walks to historic towns, local food and characterful hotels.

Explore our Brittany holidays and start planning your own journey through this inspiring corner of France.

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