You’re well looked after here by bubbly Madame, steeped as she is in the Basque tradition of hospitality. The house is listed: find ox-blood red shutters and door, a courtyard garden and wide views of the mountains. You breakfast in the dining room or on the terrace; what could be nicer than a just-baked croissant and a fresh fruit salad surrounded only by views and birdsong. This is a gentle, quiet place – not for those seeking thrills. Bedrooms are old-fashioned and flowery with balconies; beds have thick mattresses and embroidered pillow cases, bathrooms are clean and comfortable. Hop on the petit train for even more views.