In the grounds of the grand 300-year-old manor are these modern apartments; João & Ana Luisa (the family has been here for centuries) have created a stunning blend of contemporary architecture and tradition. Old stone walls, contemporary glass panels and modern art personify a minimalist chic. Splashes of colour contrast with dark antiques, striped silks hang above fine old beds, and neutral colours blend with beams, granite, terracotta and painted shutters. Baskets, blankets, ceramics and tall glass vases filled with petals add character; bathrooms have deep baths and hand-painted tiles. A woollen cushion on a carved bench, burning incense, a silk-clad mannequin – all contribute to the serenity of this place. Start the day with breakfast on your terrace, then move to wooden loungers by the pool. There are courtyards and vineyards to explore, wines to buy, surprises at every turn. Great for families, too: 7 hectares of vineyards and woods to stroll and discover, BBQs and bikes to borrow. A 10-minute drive leads to good restaurants; Viana do Castelo is also blessed with riverine and surfing beaches.