Once the hacienda produced ice for Seville – note the ice pit’s frescos, created by Napoleonic soldiers, and the old smokery’s tiles and blackened beams, protected and preserved by a new roof above. The history and fabric of this prize-winning restoration captured our imagination, along with the enthusiasm of its eco-friendly Belgian owners. Drive through the beautiful countryside of the Parque Natural and pull up before a glorious classical façade, behind which lie five rustic-chic apartments with white walls and masses of light. Delight awaits at every turn: Moroccan rugs warm terracotta floors, cream linen curtains dress new windows, kitchens have stylish mod cons. There are great big beds with fat mattresses, lovely bathrooms, stainless steel lamps, stylish antiques and scatterings of white cushions. Discover a metal staircase here, a wood-burner there, exposed stones and beams. Find a shady corner to relax, organic olive groves to roam, restaurants a five-minute drive, and a new saltwater pool with a view. Explore the nearby and recently opened Via Verde (ex railway line) by foot or bike.