Special Places to Stay - More than a bed for the night

Whichever way you come upon this bustling market town it's through classic Dales country: mighty hills and rolling pastures. Pop over the bridge and this handsome corner cottage stands before you – overlooking the river and its many waterfalls. Step in from the street and wind your way up through seemingly endless spaces. First off is the flagstoned hallway and dining room – keep your eyes peeled for quirky touches: funky lamps, vintage pottery and old signs. Up a few steps to the shaker-style kitchen – handmade, stone-floored and butler-sinked, with electric range and spotty crockery. Up again to the elegant, beamed sitting room. Stoke the fire from the heaving log basket, sink into a squishy sofa and tot up more river views. When finally you reach the top, flop on to your sleigh bed and take in the best waterfall views in the house. No TV up here, just a soothing sound system. Stroll to some great pubs and eating places, a good butcher and olde worlde general store. This is the home of Wallace's Wensleydale, so buy warm bread and a spot of cheese. Deep in the National Park, Hawes slumbers between Buttertubs and Fleet Moss on the Pennine Way. Dally awhile in deepest luxury.