Special Places to Stay - More than a bed for the night

Grapes droop lazily over the terrace, peach and plum trees melt into Apulian countryside, the pool invites a cool dip… this is a glorious Italian getaway, with friendly owners next door to make you feel in famiglia. 'Trulli' are unique to the quiet Itria valley at the top of Italy's heel, and this 19th-century trullo is typical, its chunky walls topped by five conical roofs like magicians' hats. Inside is doll's house-pretty, a warren of softly lit white walls, local tiles and low arches. Find a log fire, a stencilled dresser, a wooden dining table, a compact kitchen. Quirky antiques – candlesticks, ceramics, a typewriter – peek from nooks and crannies. Duck into two plain bedrooms, with little windows, pictures, a tiny shared shower room. It's cosy, yes, but much of the time you're outside. A lazy barbecue on the terrace, a snooze by the shady cedar, a splash in the shallow child-friendly pool… why not ask Michele and Mimma to cook breakfast or dinner, or fire up the pizza oven? They know the best local markets, the best joints in Cisternino town, and the best spots on the Adriatic coast – a short drive away.