Coastguards once kept watch here. Now you can sit at the big sash window and gaze on the enchanting, bustling harbour (where The French Lieutenant’s Woman was filmed!). This whitewashed building, whose thick cob walls have been part of Lyme’s harbour front for 300 years, has been in the Homyer family for generations, and couldn’t be better placed for supplies of the day’s glorious catch – it’s right downstairs. From the welcoming little hall where shrimp nets and deckchairs await, a panelled stairway leads to the apartment on the first floor. Enter a delightful, double-aspect sitting room with two sofas, a pretty elm table, a cushioned chest for a window-seat, rich rugs on seagrass matting, books, maps, magazines and fresh flowers: you’ll feel immediately at home. Bathroom and kitchen are fresh, spotless and well-equipped; the bedroom, with its pretty white-painted furniture and restful whites and creams, is a delicious place for a read in the late afternoon sun – beside it find a delightful wood panelled dressing room. Then set off for a steaming bowl of river Exe mussels at Hix Oyster & Fish House: bliss to dine on the terrace with a view of the sea.