The setting is gorgeous, the village is historic, and the 17th-century coaching inn has its own smithy. Set off on a circular walk and end up in the bar. A cool young team run this rather posh pub, headed up by Dom who is involved in all areas of the business. Good food is sourced locally and freshly cooked in a modern, very British, way including pub classics and sandwiches. Drinks are taken seriously: an ever-growing choice of gins (over 80!), a beer menu with craft and world beers, ales and ciders from smaller independent breweries, and an excellent choice of wines and whiskeys. Dining areas are split level, a top-notch modern take on traditional, all new slate flag floors and tartan cushions, Windsor chairs and white-painted beams. Outside: a large terraced area, an outdoor bar, petanque, comfortable places to sit – and if you are chilly? A double-sided wood-burner and woolly blankets take care of that. On the ground floor: handsome bedrooms with delicious beds, folding desks and all the technology. The quietest are away from the courtyard; go for a large room if you fancy a deep soak.