At the picturesque top of the Grand Old Duke of York’s hill is an L-shaped bar of flagstones and rose walls, carved panelling and big fires. On the other side of the bar you’ll find a dapper wine-themed restaurant where chalkboards and menus reflect the freshest local ingredients, try slow cooked Yorkshire beef feather-blade mash with root vegetables and a bourguignon sauce. Puddings are tempting too, why resist sunken ‘gooey’ chocolate cake? Set lunches, early birds and Sunday roasts are ever popular, and there are three private dining rooms (the Ox Barn seats 85) – great for family celebrations and weddings. No need to drive home: the delightfully quirky rooms in the old farmworkers’ cottages have been renovated in contemporary, country-house style. Expect original quarry-tile floors, warmly painted walls, beams and revamped bathrooms. The Studio, reached via its own outside staircase, is big and bright. Long views across the valley are stunning; in summer, flowers burst from stone troughs. Dog-friendly peacefulness 20 minutes outside York.