There’s no mistaking the Welsh hills. And the magnificence of the landscape surely inspired the Victorian artists who named this solid stone cottage their studio. Step straight into a modern, country-cosy, slate-floored kitchen, a great place to cook a romantic meal after a day up Snowdon… then cuddle into the bright two-seater sofa by the wood-burner in the large living room, where rag-washed ochre walls compliment the drape of rich fabrics and modern art. Then it’s an easy hop up open stairs to a mezzanine bedroom above – the result of the entire building being constructed around a vast boulder. Here lies a smartly dressed wrought-iron bed with an elegant throw and cushions, peeling back to reveal super-crisp linen. Just as dazzling the bathroom, small but perfectly formed, with Welsh soaps laid out below a fun mosaic mirror. It’s all about the walking here – up to a picnic bench in a woodland clearing with views along the Lledr Valley, or to the neolithic burial chamber behind. Ian and Gwawr are terrific hosts who run a B&B next door, and know a thing or two about making a stay special.