The position here is magical: an ancient stone bridge, a river snaking through the valley, glorious hills rising beyond, cows grazing in lush fields. It’s a perfect spot, not least because providence blessed it with this chic little inn. Inside, you find a locals’ bar for the odd game of rugby, sofas in front of a wood-burner in the sitting room, The Dog and Boot bar for dogs and walkers with muddy boots, then an airy restaurant for some very good food. In summer, doors fly open and life spills onto a stone terrace with views of hill and wood or beside the river Monnow – a fine spot for lunch in the sun. Elegant country-house bedrooms brim with light. Some are beamed, most are big, you’ll find padded bedheads, Farrow & Ball colours, perhaps a walnut bed or a claw-foot bath in your room. Those at the front have river views, those at the back look onto the hills, some have sofas, all have robes in excellent bathrooms. Seven circular walks start at the front door with maps to show you the way. Delicious food awaits your return, perhaps Welsh rarebit with a poached egg, braised beef brisket with dauphinoise potatoes, apple doughnuts with toffee sauce and mulled cider.