So what are the ingredients of one of the loveliest inns in the land? Well, it’s quirky, homespun, and thrives on a mix of relaxed informality and colourful style. The bar resembles the sitting room of a hip country house, with timber frames, cool tunes and comfy sofas in front of the fire. Painted stone walls come in blocks of colour and you dine informally in the white-walled restaurant, with stock pots simmering on an Aga. The food is excellent, perhaps Portland crab, boeuf Bourguignon, chocolate mousse with marscarpone; much of what you eat comes from a half-acre kitchen garden, with meat and game from the hills around you. Pretty bedrooms have colour and style. Expect comfy beds and crisp linen, good bathrooms with fluffy towels, Roberts radios and a smattering of books (but no TV unless you ask). Breakfast is a leisurely treat: read the morning papers, make your own toast, scoff the full Welsh works. A road passes outside, but quietly at night, while lanes lead into the hills, so come to walk, ride, bike, canoe. Hay is close for books galore. Don’t miss excellent off-season deals.