3 days in South Devon with a gallerist: Art, coast, and great food

I was born in South Devon and apart from a brief stint living elsewhere, I have lived in the area my whole life. It’s no accident that it’s a holiday hotspot! The beautiful surroundings, rolling hills, lush woodlands and breathtaking coastal scenery alone make it worth a visit. Complementing this is a vibrant community of innovators, from artisanal food producers to the visionaries behind enchanting dining and retail spaces, often hidden in the most unexpected corners. 

I’ve curated a three-day itinerary featuring my family’s absolute favourite spots tucked away in our corner of South Devon. These are the places we return to time and again to recharge, regroup and reinvigorate. Whether you follow the plan start to finish or simply dip in as you please, feel free to mix and match these suggestions to create your perfect escape. We usually have our dog Max with us, so all of these suggestions are dog friendly too… Enjoy! 

Day 1: Totnes and Dartington 

I recommend heading to Totnes and Dartington to soak up the craftsmanship and independent spirit of these very special places. It’s my favourite spot for some retail therapy and foodie treats. 

Morning: Start at The Curator for a wood-roasted coffee and Italian pastry. Wander up Fore Street, making sure you stop at Me & East for the perfect curation of handmade jewellery, ceramics, furniture and textiles, Flux Books for a brilliant selection of thought provoking books and Palmer by Design for beautiful home and fashion items by the likes of Verden, Toast and LF Markey. NB, Friday is market day and the town really comes alive!  

Lunch: Once you have exhausted the shops of Totnes, head to the Dartington Estate. Grab a picnic from Luna’s Bakehouse at the Cider Press, then walk the 2-mile circular trail which takes you from Dartington Hall to a medieval viewing platform overlooking the resident fallow deer and descends into a tranquil woodland towards the banks of the River Dart. Eat your picnic here before returning through lush water meadows. If you have the time or would prefer something less energetic, the grade-II listed gardens at Dartington Hall are worth a visit too, look out for the Henry Moore sculpture! 

Afternoon: Visit my gallery space, №13, in Torbay by appointment. It’s a colourful, friendly, domestic setting that aims to redefine how you view contemporary art! 

Evening: Dinner at The Doe in Buckfastleigh. A real find, slightly off the beaten track and somewhere I wholeheartedly recommend for a relaxed yet elevated dining experience. The evening menu changes frequently to reflect the best available local produce and options typically focus on inventive sharing plates. There is also a very good wine list! Book in advance via email. 

Or 

Dinner at Osteria Emilia in Ashburton. We have eaten here many times and always enjoy it very much. A seasonal menu of rustic Italian food accompanied by a thoughtfully selected wine list and perfectly made Italian cocktails. Watch the chefs work behind the counter and relax in a restaurant that feels very much like a stylish Italian home in the heart of Devon! 

Day 2: Bantham to Burgh Island 

This is my dream day out when I just need to slow down, take some deep breaths and get some perspective. Best enjoyed off peak as those country lanes and car parks can get pretty busy during the holidays. 

Morning: Start at Outside near Bantham. This is a multi-concept space with a skate bowl, café and pottery on site, it’s bursting with creative energy. Order a delicious breakfast or brunch here, the chefs focus on fresh global flavours using ingredients grown themselves and it never disappoints. 

Late Morning: Head down to Bantham Beach. Explore the rockpools or sweat it out at The Somewhere Sauna followed by an invigorating dunk in the sea. 

Lunch: Drive to Bigbury on Sea and visit the magical Burgh Island (pronounced burr), accessible by a walk across the sand or a high-tide trip on the sea tractor. The island’s iconic centerpiece is its magnificent Art Deco hotel, synonymous with the mystery and glamour of Agatha Christie. Have a drink and a light lunch in my favourite pub in the whole world, The Pilchard Inn, a tiny 14th-century pub that feels like a smuggler’s lair. We love to go during the quieter months and feel like we have it to ourselves. 

Evening: Treat yourself to an evening meal at Fowlescombe Farm, a quietly luxurious and restorative rural retreat set close to the wilds of Dartmoor in Devon. Executive Chef Elly Wentworth runs the kitchen at Fowlescombe Farm with a simple goal: let the ingredients shine. Every dish is a tribute to the land, focusing on exactly what’s in season right now. The menu changes constantly based on whatever has just been harvested from the farm itself. There are usually a handful of seats at their refectory table for non-residents each evening, and they go quickly, book yours in advance for a really special, exclusive experience while you are staying in South Devon.  

Alternatively, for a more laid-back evening meal, head up the hill from Bigbury Beach and order a delicious artisan wood-fired pizza from Bigbury Bay Pizzas situated at Mount Folly Farm campsite. Take it back down to the beach or eat it straight away, sitting on a picnic table overlooking the bay as the sun goes down. 

Day 3: Salcombe

When you want to feel like you’ve been abroad without getting on a plane… 

Morning: Beat the crowds by starting at East Soar car park, where you can join a stunning stretch of the South West Coast Path. Our preferred route goes via East Soar Farm toward the historic Overbeck’s House. While several paths are available, we recommend the short cliff-top trail on the way in, to maximize your time in Salcombe, returning at the end of the day via the even quicker path through the fields. As you descend from Overbeck’s, take a moment to marvel at the breathtaking views of the aquamarine water and the lush, tropical gardens on your walk into town. 

Lunch: Take the five minute ferry from Salcombe town over the estuary to East Portlemouth and pick up a coffee and a sausage roll from The Old Stable (do check opening times) before making your way to Mill Bay. Its white sand and turquoise water feels like paradise. If you want something more substantial than a sausage roll, I also highly recommend The Old Stable sister restaurant, Village Farm which is a 20 minute walk inland from the ferry (the Sunday roasts here are particularly good!) 

Afternoon: Back in Salcombe, visit Salcombe Gin for a gin making session or just an extremely good G&T! then browse The Drang Gallery for high-end contemporary pieces. Pop into Kitty Ward’s pottery studio and treat yourself to one of her stunning blue and white pieces before enjoying a world-famous Salcombe Dairy ice cream. Board the ferry for an easy ride back to South Sands and walk back to your car via the shorter route across the fields! 

Evening: I recommend two choices that both feature in the Michelin Guide. A delicious meal at Mitch Tonks’ restaurant, The Seahorse in Dartmouth. Enjoy an Italian inspired menu of fresh fish and seasonal ingredients in an elegant setting. Make sure you start the meal in Joe’s bar for an aperitif (I HIGHLY recommend Joe’s Negroni). The Seahorse also offers a delicious set lunch menu which is great value if you are in Dartmouth at lunchtime. 

Or 

Conclude your day at Andria, also in Dartmouth, an intimate restaurant that has garnered high praise for its innovative approach to local ingredients. The atmosphere is sophisticated but stays true to the town’s unpretentious, friendly vibe, tucked away on Lower Street. I highly recommend booking the chef’s table for a truly memorable and delicious experience under the expert guide of the highly entertaining Head Chef Luca. Another contender for a great roast dinner as well! 

 

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