3 days in South East Cornwall: Late summer quiet and delight

Late summer is a wonderful time to visit our quiet corner of Cornwall; the ocean is at its warmest yet the summertime bustle has ebbed away, there’s a rich honey-like quality to the evening light, coupled with an impulsion to savour every last moment in nature before the leaves fall and the evenings draw in. 

My recommendations for three days in South East Cornwall combine visiting local market towns, getting out in nature and some favourite foodie options.  Day 2 involves taking a picnic to a remote stretch of stunning coastline, so I’ve included some thoughts on where to pick up the tastiest local ingredients the day before, and recipes to inspire your picnic. 

Day 1

Explore the historic market town of Lostwithiel, a hidden gem that is vibrant, creative and hosts many pop-up events through the year from Lostfest in May to Dickensian Evening in December, and much in between including their monthly Farmer’s Market. Stroll down the main street and pop into Alice in Scandiland my favourite independent homeware shop. Thoughtfully curated with a combination of local- and Scandi-sourced finds, the interiors are regularly re-styled, it’s always inspiring to step through the front door to the be surrounded by the beautiful décor as you browse.   

A few shops along, Bellamama Deli will entice you in with the delicious aroma of their freshly baked goods. Grab some delicacies for your picnic tomorrow; there’s a well-stocked local cheese counter and various types of freshly made bread, cakes and pastries to add to your picnic basket. 

Be sure to visit Molesworth & Bird at the bottom of the main street, selling hand-pressed prints and homewares that are created through seaweed foraged sustainably from the nearby coastline. 

Follow the river upstream on the quiet lane that leads to Restormel Castle, about a 20 minute walk from the town centre. Walk around the battlements of this 13th century fort which stands proud on a mound with sweeping views down to the River Fowey. 

From Restormal Castle you can cut through the woodlands and across to the Duchy of Cornwall Nursery for a delicious lunch menu featuring local growers and producers.  The walk back into town creates a lovely circular route. Take a pot with you for collecting blackberries, which are abundant in late summer, and you may wish to use for your picnic lunch tomorrow. There’s nothing quite like connecting with your locality with a spot of foraging! 

Bring your bathing costume and a towel if you fancy a dip; there are a couple of serene swimming spots, and the local community has successfully campaigned for a designated bathing spot along this tidal stretch of the River Fowey. 

Before leaving Lostwithiel, pop up to Colwith Farm Shop where you can stock up on fresh local veggies and ingredients to enjoy an evening of cooking at home; for me, one of the great treats of being on holiday is taking time to potter in the kitchen making slow rather than hurried meals from the best local ingredients. You will also need to prepare your picnic for tomorrow’s adventures! 

Recipe suggestions, for supper and tomorrow’s picnic – keeping it local I recommend local author and chef James Strawbridge’s ‘The Complete Vegetable Cookbook’ (we keep copies in our cottages here at Botelet Farm) or check out James’s Instagram for lots of delicious and innovative recipe ideas for celebrating the season’s produce.  James’s wife Holly specialises in simple, healthy picnic recipes, so her Instagram page is also a great go-to for preparing tomorrow’s lunch on-the-go. 

From my own recipe blog, I recommend making these ‘Blackberry and Elderberry Tartlets’ for your picnic hamper – a tasty but healthy hit of sweet after a sea swim tomorrow and a lovely way to incorporate some foraged finds from your walk earlier in the day. 

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Day 2

Today is all about getting out on the coast path for a decent hike – and an invigorating sea swim for those who are game – then relaxing with a therapeutic massage in the afternoon. The stretch of coastline just south of Botelet is our favourite in Cornwall; undulating coast paths with stunning vistas over the ocean, peppered with quiet, craggy coves that you can clamber down to for paddles, swims or simply sit and watch the light play on the water and gannets dive. 

This is remote walking hence the picnic. Pack water, food, bathing costume and towel, and a warm top to throw on after a dip in the ocean.  Park at Frogmore Car Park and follow the National Trust’s recommended route ‘Lantivet Bay Circular Walk.’ It’s a 2.8 mile walk which may not seem far, but this section of coast path includes some steep climbs, and I can guarantee you’ll want to stop multiple times to enjoy the expansive views or quiet coves that you stumble upon. 

Note – always check tide and sea conditions before swimming as this section of coastline is remote and does not have lifeguards. 

Later in the afternoon, retreat for a therapeutic massage with me at Botelet. Whether staying with us at Botelet, or elsewhere locally, you are welcome to relax on the couch in my therapy room. With treatments from 30 minutes up to two hours, book in for some time out and we design your bespoke treatment based on exactly what you need at the time. 

For supper, head out to Fern for a thoughtful, locally-inspired menu in a stunning verdant countryside setting.   

Day 3

After a leisurely start to the day, pop down to local fishing port Looe (best visited out of the main summer season) and have coffee at our favourite local coffee spot, Lammana. Owner George knows his stuff and there’s always a relaxed but inspired feel to the café, which is tucked away rather unexpectedly off the quayside in Looe. There are a selection of delicious pastries, and you may wish to take home some of their speciality beans to enjoy back at home.

Nestled in the valley upstream from Looe is Tonley Farm, home to Ripe Cider where Georgie and Cam make low-intervention, natural cider from their small-holding. Join a farm tour to learn about the regenerative whole-system approach they take, and sample their incredible ciders. Be prepared for your views on cider to be redefined! Pick up a bottle (or two) of Ripe Cider to take along to your evening venue.

An insider gem of an evening out is Leyland Supper Club which takes place in the rustic, beautifully adored barn a few miles along the lanes from Botelet. This pop-up seasonal supper is a treat for the senses; with a five course set-menu inspired by food grown on-site by friend of Botelet Holly, and foraged by local expert Emma, each Supper Club takes a different culinary theme but is always exceptionally tasty combining classic recipes with some unusual foraged twists. You will find us seated at the long tables, or helping in the kitchens! A perfect finale to your time in South East Cornwall.

Tia Tamblyn is the owner of holiday cottages Cowslip Cottage and Manor House at Botelet farm.

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