48 hours in Lecce: A food lover’s guide to Puglia’s Baroque jewel

You might wake up in a truly special place to stay, but don’t let that stop you from getting out early – your days should begin with the real heart of any Italian city: its markets. 

Markets and Morning Rituals

Start your Sunday morning at the Farmers Market in Piazzetta Bottazzi, where local producers from the Campagna Amica network showcase the best of Puglia’s agricultural   bounty. There’s something magical about watching a city wake up through its food vendors – the careful arrangement of just-picked vegetables, the proud conversations between farmers and their regular customers. 

For a proper market experience, head to the twice-weekly market on Via Bari near the football stadium (Mondays and Fridays). Yes, you’ll have to hunt through stalls selling clothes and shoes to find the food treasures, but it’s worth it. This is where I discovered what I call ‘nonna knives’ – those wonderfully cheap serrated vegetable knives that every Italian grandmother swears by – and ferro rods for rolling maccheroni pasta. I bought ten on my last visit as potential stocking presents, much to my suitcase’s dismay. 

If you prefer your markets more central, Piazza Libertini hosts a weekly one that’s particularly bustling on Mondays and Fridays. 

Coffee Culture and Sweet Indulgences

Lecce is undeniably beautiful, though you’ll want to hurry through Piazza Sant’Oronzo at the moment – it’s currently a construction site rather than the postcard-perfect square you might expect. Every guidebook will point you toward Caffè Alvino in this piazza, and while it’s good, you’ll be contributing to the crowds which throng it. 

Instead, seek out Al Ventuno, not far from Santa Croce. This small bar has evolved from its rustic, traditional roots under new management, but you can still enjoy an exceptional caffè leccese here – a perfect marriage of espresso, ice cube, and almond milk that makes perfect sense in the Puglian heat. 

Another gem is Pasticceria Natale on Via Salvatore Trinchese, which does double duty with excellent gelato alongside its pastries. If you’re traveling with children (and honestly, even if you’re not), the nearby Museo dei Bambini offers interactive exhibits that might buy you enough time to properly savour that second gelato. 

Speaking of keeping little ones entertained, Cioccolati is chocolate heaven. The flowing wall of chocolate will mesmerise  children for at least thirty seconds while adults contemplate the impressive range of chocolate ice creams on offer. 

Wine and Evening Aperitivi

Lecce has no shortage of wine bars, but for an extensive exploration of Puglian wines, Mamma Elivera Enoteca is your best bet. They stock my favourite sparkling rosé: D’Araprì  

Brut Rosè Metodo Classico – it’s got a lovely mousse and it is just the ticket for a hot summer evening. Or a cold winter one!  

When the evening calls for something more spirited, head to Quanto Basta for their buzzy atmosphere, and expertly crafted, ever-so-cool cocktails. I tend to stick to gin and tonic, so cannot recommend anything exotic, but the lovely waiters can!  

The Art of Papier-Mâché

Here’s something that might surprise you: take a closer look at Lecce’s baroque architecture. That ornate ceiling in Chiesa di Santa Chiara? It looks like carved wood, but it’s actually cartapesta – papier-mâché. This local art form is more than craft; it’s a tribute to ingenuity and artistic skill. 

Walking from Porta San Giacomo toward the city centre, you’ll find Terra Carta Fuoco, the  

workshop of local artist Stefania Guarascio, strategically positioned across from the Church of San Matteo. Since opening the workshop in 1992, she’s been creating everything from traditional Nativity scenes to innovative lamps and jewellery that represent the four elements and seasons. She’s lovely too, and will be there, working on her latest creation.  

Where to Eat: From Lunch to Late-Night Gelato

For Lunch: 

Alle Due Corti earns its name from its location between two courtyards, but its reputation is thanks to its good cooking. Special mention should be made of ricciaredde – a pasta invented by the owner years ago. Think pappardelle made only with water and flour, but slightly thicker, served with a spicy tomato sauce, oregano, and ricotta cheese. Their homemade sagne ‘ncannulate – typical of Puglia – are equally good.  Alternatively, Nona Tetti, located on Piazzetta Regina Maria. We’ve enjoyed the homemade pasta and the fave e cicoria – bean puree with bitter greens. With a name like that, how could we resist? 

For Dinner: 

If you’re in the mood for food that’s gently thought provoking and delightful to look at, then  

book a table at Primo. This showcases the talents of self-taught chef Solaika Marrocco. Her parmigiana di melanzana, made with béchamel using burnt wheat flour, exemplifies her approach of honouring tradition while embracing innovation. Reservations are essential – this isn’t a secret locals want to keep to themselves. 

For something more relaxed, Trattoria Le Zie translates as ‘the aunties’ restaurant,’ which  

tells you everything you need to know about the food: casual, comforting, and utterly moreish. 

Sweet Discoveries and Evening Rituals

Local delicacies deserve attention, particularly the ‘pasta di mandorla’ – a sweet paste made with almonds and honey from the Monastero delle Benedettine. At Easter, these come shaped as lambs; at Christmas, as fish. They’re almost too beautiful to eat and make perfect small gifts for those back home. 

For a broader selection of local specialties, visit Cotognata Leccese on Via Marconi. They’re famous for their quince paste (cotognata), but their range extends far beyond it. No Italian evening is complete without the ritual passeggiata, and in Lecce, this should include a stroll past the Duomo – even more stunning when illuminated at night. Follow local custom and end with an evening gelato. Baldo Gelato, with its commitment to organic and locally sourced ingredients, offers flavours like blood orange and fig which makes you think ‘ahh Puglia!’ With every spoonful. 

Take your time, embrace the rhythm of this charming little city and find your own favourites. Lecce will reveal itself to you one delicious bite at a time. 

Places to stay in Lecce

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