A few days in… Languedoc-Roussillon

Day 1: Beziers – mirrored water and myths 

Depending on where you’re based, this could be either a very short trip into town or a step outside your front door, as we start our Languedoc trip with a quiet day in Beziers. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a still day and see the arches of the Pont Vieux and the cathedral on the hill above it reflected perfectly in the river.  

The Canal du Midi runs through the town as well, making for a nice quiet walk, while the basilica of Saint Aphrodise, built on the cave where the eponymous saint is said to have buried himself and being decapitated, is worth a visit. Especially if you can catch it on one of the rare days it’s open to visitors. Break up some very pleasant wandering with a visit to La Guinguette de la Laiterie, a lovely little bar by the river, or Le Chameau Ivre for more fancy lunch.   

Day 2: Lac Salagou & Moureze – dolomites, ghost towns and shore walks 

On the second day, it’s time to get outdoors and active. About an hour and a quarter north of Beziers lies Lac Salagou. It’s a man-made lake created by a dam built across the river of the same name in the late 60s. In places, the iron-rich soil makes for bright red rocks and some spectacular scenery, with the “route forestiere” walking trail being a great way to get various perspectives on the landscape. 

One interesting highlight is the village of Celles, which was abandoned during the creation of the lake, on the assumption that the water would cover it. Although it failed to the reach the village, the residents did not return and for a time, only the church was maintained, standing pristine as the buildings around fell into ruin. Recently the village has shown signs of revival but is still a curious sight. On your way to or from Salagou, it’s worth considering a stop in Mourèze, just 20 minutes to the south of the lake. Here, 1000 acres are dotted with dolomites in a natural amphitheatre known as the Cirque de Mourèze. Start from the Parc des Courtinals to get your bearings, then take one of the many trails that wind around the bases of the towering rock formations. 

Day 3: Resting and a vineyard picnic 

After the previous day’s exertions, especially if you circumnavigated Lac Salagou as well as taking some of the longer Mourèze trails, it’s worth throwing in a bit of rest. There are some lovely spots along the Canal du Midi in Beziers, or in the parks of Pézenas, but to really do it properly, you need the languid indulgence of a vineyard picnic. At Domaine de la Dourbie, a winery 45 minutes north of Beziers, you can enjoy one of their immersive tasting sessions followed by lunch al fresco, surrounded by centuries-old trees in a shaded spot in the grounds. You might even sample their home-made gin, honey and olive oil as you dine in beautiful peace before retiring to a hammock or deck chair for a nap. 

Day 4: Bages and the saltwater lagoons 

Given that you’re on the south coast, you’ll almost certainly spend a little time at the beach, but a visit to Bages is a unique way to do it. The small village sits on the inland side of a series of saltwater lagoons, about 45 minutes south of Beziers. Here you can wander boardwalks and trails, watching the array of birdlife that calls these wetlands home. You can also swim in some of the pools, with Étang du Doul said to be saltier than the Dead Sea. Bages has some lovely cafés where you can take a break and, if you still want to have some classic beach time, just head across the lagoons or a few minutes down the coast to the long sandy strips that look out to sea. 

 

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