4 days in Mèze: Oysters, vineyards and the art of slowing down

Day 1: Mèze and nothing more 

Spend your first day acclimatising, by which we mean slowing down. Try to get to around 11am without really having done anything at all. A stroll through the cobbled streets, a coffee stop in a small town square, perhaps a stroll along the harbour. In the afternoon (there’s probably a nap to be had before this) head down to La Plage du Tambourin and paddle in the sea for a while. Finish the pleasantly unrushed day with dinner at La Rive Gauche, a family-run restaurant with one of the loveliest terraces on the harbour, where you can get a great introduction to local cuisine. 

Day 2: Boozy Bouzigues 

On day two, it’s time to zip along the coast by e-bike with the salty sea air in your hair. In about 45 minutes, you could be inMarseillan, another charming coastal town that’s good for a little wander and brunch. It’s also home to Noilly Prat, producers of one of the world’s most beloved vermouths and you can drop in for a visit and a tasting, although you should remember that you have to cycle home! If you’re not already clinking with souvenirs when you head back, stop in at Domaine de Belle Mare to pick up their particularly fine examples of the local specialty, Picpoul de Pinet. For dinner, overshoot Mèze slightly and head to Atelier & Co, where fresh oysters, mussels and shellfish are served straight from the working oyster farm near the restaurant, making this one of the freshest seafood experiences on the Étang de Thau, which is really saying something. 

Day 3: Sète sail 

On the far side of the Étang de Thau from Mèze is Sète, “Venice of the Languedoc”, which looks out onto the Balearic from the narrow strip of land that forms the lagoon’s western shore. Despite being a working fishing port, it has a thriving arts scene, so a nose around the galleries and a check for any events taking place are well worth it. While you could cycle around to Sète, the far more cinematic way to get there (during peak season) is by water taxi, skipping over the lagoon and alighting straight onto the bustling harbour. You could also take a catamaran tour of the oyster beds or hire your own electric boat and go chugging up and down the coast as you please. Make this a treat night with dinner at Le Bistrot del Mar, back in Mèze. It’s a little more expensive than most restaurants on the port, but well worth it for beautifully cooked seafood and a contemporary menu.

Day 4:  Gorgeous gorges   

For a literal and complete change of scenery, we head inland to the area around Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert. The UNESCO World Heritage village, home to the magnificent Abbey of Gellone, is well worth some of your time, but save enough to get into the wilderness. There are walks along the deep river gorges, stunning wild swimming spots and strenuous climbs if you want them, while you can also delve into the spectacular caverns of Grotte De Clamouse, with its incredible limestone formations. On the way back, if you’ve booked, drop in to Mas du Novi, because no day on this trip should be without wine. The estate has lovely gardens, a historic chapel, barrel and amphora cellars and an unexpected collection of vintage cars. Head home to Mèze and your choice of waterfront bistro, then think about which bits of the last four days you feel like repeating, because there’s no improving on perfection. 

Tamsin Mackinnon is the owner of Maison de Thau, a former fisherman’s house in Mèze.

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