5 days in Deux-Sèvres: Canoes, cognac and donkeys

Arrival night

After what’s likely to have been a long day of travelling, keep it simple and nearby. In Chef-Boutonne there’s JOS pizzeria. It’s not fancy but you don’t need to book and you can also try farci Poitevin, a local specialty which is like a paté made from green leaves and pork or bacon.  

Day 1: Montjean, Sompt & Sauzé Vaussais

Take in a morning market (Lezay is a favourite but you might have to vary this depending on the day you arrive) then head over to the Lavoirs at Sompt. Some of these traditional wash houses have been renovated and reopened for visitor use and this is lovely spot. Take a dip or walk the tree-lined path from Sompt to La Barbette, an easy ramble that’ll get you ready for your next meal, which is what holidaying in France is all about! Lunch at Le Relais de la Péruse in Montjean is a four-course affair with wine and coffee, which will set you up for a leisurely afternoon by the pool, perhaps followed by an evening picnic of your morning purchases.  

Day 2: Chef-Boutonne & Melle

In the morning, head over to the donkey sanctuary at Dampierre sur Boutonne. It sounds odd, but the Baudet du Poitou, with their long, shaggy coats, are quite a sight. Spend the afternoon in Melle, wandering the Château de Javarzay and its museum, then touring the three Romanesque churches, especially the UNESCO-listed Saint Hilaire. You can eat there too, at L’Argentière, which looks discouragingly like a motel, but is wonderful on the inside!  

Day 3: Ruffec & Verteuil sur Charente

Get up early and head for Ruffec, where there are plenty of places for the daily coffee and pastry fix. Take a stroll round the Church of St André before readying yourself for a bit of messing about on the river. Hire a canoe (you’ll need to have booked ahead) from Le Réjallant Ruffec Canoe Kayak and paddle down past the château at Verteuil sur Charente. Fortunately, the canoe company arranges things so you can make a one-way trip, staying in Verteuil sur Charente for dinner on the leafy terrace of Le Jeux de Pots.  

Day 4: Niort

After the previous day’s paddling, something calmer might be in order, so spend the day idling in Niort. If you’re there on a Thursday, Saturday or Sunday, you can browse the renowned market for local walnuts, goat’s cheese, and fish brought in from the Île d’Oléron. Visit the Donjon, the fortified castle keep that sits on the Sèvre Niortaise and drop into Les Planches, a buzzy bistro next door, for lunch. 

Day 5: Cognac & Neuvicq-le-Château

Flip a coin at the start of the day to choose a designated driver, because this could get a bit blurry. Start with a visit to the History of Cognac Museum in, unsurprisingly, Cognac. From there, drive to Neuvicq-le-Château for the Balluet distillery tour (closed on Sundays and Mondays, shut every day between midday and 2pm). Jean Balluet is the current custodian of the long-running family business and he runs occasional tours, on which tastings are said to be plentiful to the point of danger. Finish with dinner at La Ribaudière in Bourg Charente. You’ll need to book ahead, it’s a spectacular place and rightly popular. 

A few things to do with any extra days:  

• Poitiers and Futuroscope, the amusement park with some wild rides.
• Angoulême for the comic strip museum and the old town.
• La Rochelle for the aquarium and the harbour towers.
• Rochefort for the Corderie Royale and the Musée des Commerces d’Autrefois, similar distance to La Rochelle.

Alison Hudson and her husband Francis are the owners of gîtes Clos de Jardins and Le Ruisseau Perdu

 

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