6 days in southern Corsica: Abandoned villages, mountain forests and beautiful beaches

Day 1: Nothing too strenuous

Not venturing too far after the journey here, begin with a visit to Pruna, an abandoned village settled by Hervé’s ancestors in the late 17th century and now seeing its old stone houses being reclaimed by the shrubs and flowers of the maquis. From there, walk to Petit Sperone beach, reached on foot along the coast, with white sand and views out to the Lavezzi Islands. In the evening, dine at Le Dune, where the Mediterranean cooking is generous and the light over the water changes constantly while you eat.  

Day 2: Porto-Vecchio and the vineyards

A day mixing history, wine and the town itself. Begin at Castello d’Araggio, a prehistoric hilltop fortress with archaeological remains and panoramic views over Porto-Vecchio. From there, head to Domaine de Torraccia, a sea-view estate that’s helped shape Corsican wine’s reputation and where the setting is spectacular as the wines themselves. Spend the late afternoon in Porto-Vecchio’s old town, wandering the small streets and finding a terrace near the marina as the evening picks up. Finish with dinner at AMA in Palavesa, a favourite of Hervé’s, set in a garden where the chef grows many of the vegetables you’ll find on the menu. 

Day 3: Run (amble) for the hills

It’s useful, especially if you visit in summer, to have a day in cooler climes to fall back on. When you need it, head inland to the Ospedale Forest, where you can look out over the Gulf of Porto-Vecchio from the shade of Corsican pines and dip your feet in refreshing waterfalls. If you’re ready to get hot again, take the mountain walk to La Vacca Morta, for even more incredible views. You can even see Sardinia on a clear day. On the way back, stop at the Fiumicicoli Natural Pools, if you can find them, for a swim among smooth granite rocks. After a fairly full day, this might be the time to stay at home for the night, raiding a few local shops for some fine produce and eating simply but sumptuously.  

Day 4: The unmissable Lavezzi Islands

A visit to the Lavezzi islands is the one day we wouldn’t drop, however short of time you are. Book a private boat, or a local excursion from Bonifacio, and take a full day trip out to the protected reserve, where crystal-clear lagoons positively demand you swim and snorkel. If you have time, visit the village of Bonifcaio or call in at Clos Finidori, a family-owned vineyard nearby producing some excellent wines with real character. Cap it with dinner at Mélia, where a rotating line-up of guest chefs through the season means no two visits are quite the same. 

Day 5: On the beach

Carrataggio at sunrise is the place to start. Arrive early, before the beach fills up, possibly even seeing the sun rise in the beautiful bay. You might want to stay here all day, but photogenic (and thus often crowded) Rondinara, might be worth a look. If you feel the need to earn your lazy paddling in the surf, walk some of the Bruzzi Coastal Trail, past wind-sculpted granite and through the fragrant Mediterranean scrub, with sea views the whole way. Keep the nautical theme going with dinner, at La Cabane du Pêcheur in Santa Manza – a relaxed, seafood-led spot right by the water.  

Day 6: Slowing into Sartène

As you wind down towards the end of the trip, Sartène, often called the most Corsican of Corsican towns, is a good place to idle and soak up the last of the culture and cuisine. Start with morning coffee, sight see into an early lunch, then head off for the Caldane Thermal Springs. After you’ve simmered in the soothing waters, make your way to Finestra, where the sea views and true Corsican cooking will send you home with the sights, sounds and flavours of the island still infusing all your senses. 

Hervé Bougon is the owner of B&B Casa Penisula. 

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